61. Q. How can it be known if an eccentric has slipped on the axle?

A. By the uneven exhaust of the engine and a thorough inspection to determine the cause.

62. Q. Having determined which eccentric has slipped, how should it be reset?

A. Place the engine on the center on disabled side and if a back-up eccentric has slipped, would place the reverse lever in full forward gear and mark the valve stem flush with the gland; then place the reverse lever in full back gear and move the slipped eccentric until the mark on the stem returns to its original position, taking notice that the throw of the eccentric is on the other side of the axle from the go-ahead eccentric used as a marker, and tighten up set-screws. To set a go-ahead eccentric, use the back-up one on that side for the marker. If the eccentric had been keyed on, would move the cam until the key-way in the axle came in line with the slot in the cam. Knowing the position of the eccentric in relation to the crank pin, an inspection would show where it belongs. The eccentrics are usually opposite the third spoke in the driving wheel from the pin, sometimes ahead of the pin, in other cases back of the pin, depending on whether it is an inside or outside admission valve, a go-ahead or back-up eccentric.

63. Q. What should be done in case of a broken eccentric strap or rod?

A. For a go-ahead strap or rod take down all broken parts, disconnect valve rod, cover ports, and come in on one side. It is safer to take down also the back-up strap and rod on that side. If the back-up strap and rod is broken, it is possible to secure the bottom end of the link so it will not turn over, work the engine full stroke ahead, proceeding with full train until the main line is clear.

64. Q. How should the engine be disconnected if the lower rocker arm became broken? If link block pin?

A. Would remove broken parts; if moving link would strike anything connected with the rocker box or broken arm it would be necessary to take down both eccentric straps and rods. Block valve central over ports and come ahead on one side. If a link block pin was broken, it might be possible to put a bolt in there to do the work, otherwise block the valve on the center of its seat and if the link will not clear the lower end of the rocker arm take down the eccentric straps and rod. In any case where necessary to take off the eccentric rod always take off the strap also.

65. Q. For what breakdown is it necessary to take down the main rod? The side rod?

A. A broken main crank pin, broken main rod or strap, broken piston rod when near the middle of the rod, broken cross-head or guide, broken valve or seat when steam cannot be kept out of the cylinder. Side rods must come down for broken side rod, broken main pin, or broken side rod pin affecting that rod.

66. Q. If it is not necessary to take down the main rod of disabled side of the engine, how would you arrange to lubricate the cylinders?

A. If cylinder and piston are in good shape and it is possible to block the valve to admit a small quantity of steam into the back end of the cylinder, oil from the lubricator will go through this opening and oil the piston rod and cylinder packing. If not possible to block the valve properly, cover the ports and oil the cylinder through the indicator plug openings or relief plug holes. If not possible to do this, slack off the bolts on the front cylinder head, wedge the head open so oil can be introduced. In some cases it may be necessary to take the head off; that however, allows dust and grit to enter the cylinder.

67. Q. What is the by-pass valve, and what is its duty?

A. By-pass valves are connected to the steam port leading to the cylinder. Its duty is to open when the engine is drifting with steam shut off, and close when working steam, to allow air to pass back and forth from opposite sides of the moving piston.

68. Q. What is a vacuum relief valve? What a cylinder relief valve?

A. A vacuum relief valve is usually located on the steam chest or the live steam passage to the chest and opens when steam is shut off and engine drifting, allowing atmospheric pressure to pass into the steam chest, closing when working steam. A cylinder relief valve is a pop valve screwed into the cylinder head and set at high enough pressure so it does not open in ordinary service, but will open to allow water to pass out when the exhaust port is closed by valves; or on compound engines when the pressure in the low-pressure cylinder gets too high.

69. Q. What would be considered a bad engine or tender truck wheel?

A. One loose on axle; having bad flat spots; very sharp flanges; bad sand spots; cracks shelled out; or other defect that would make the wheel unsafe.

70. Q. What should be done if a tender truck wheel or axle should break?

A. Would place a piece of timber or rail across the tender, jack up the corner of the truck that is disabled chain it to the timber and fasten the timber at the other end to hold it so it would carry the disabled truck. If it is possible to slide the wheel or truck, place a tie across the rail and keep the wheel from turning, then slide it to a siding.

71. Q. What should be done if an engine truck wheel or axle should break?

A. Would block between the engine frame and truck frame over the good wheel on disabled side, swing the disabled corner of the truck to the engine frame with a chain. Look out when crossing frogs that disabled truck does not leave the track. With a broken flange, would block the wheel to prevent its turning and skid it to a siding.

72. Q. What should be done for a broken tender truck spring?

A. Jack the tender up to where it belongs and put a block in place of the broken spring.

73. Q. What should be done with a broken engine truck spring or equalizer?

A. For a broken spring, raise the front end of the engine and place blocks across the equalizers under the truck spring near the spring band. For a broken equalizer, block on top of engine truck boxes and under truck frame.

74. Q. What should be done if a driving spring hanger or equalizer should break?

A. Would block between the driving box affected and under the frame over it, using hardwood block or piece of iron. Would also block the equalizer up to its proper position between the disabled end and the frame, or over the other end, as the type of spring rigging requires, to hold the equalizer level. For a broken equalizer, would block on top of all boxes affected, would raise the engine by running the proper driving wheels upon an incline or wedge to lift the engine while other boxes were blocked; a re-railing frog comes handy for this work.

75. Q. How can an engine be moved if the reverse lever or reach rod were caught at short cut-off by a broken spring or hanger?

A. By removing the pin at the forward end of reach rod, to free the tumbling shaft and allow it to be moved either forward or back to move the engine. A block should be placed over the link block to avoid damaging it when uncoupled, as well as to hold link in proper position to move the engine. This would allow the engine to be moved and clear the main line.

76. Q. How can the blowing of steam past cylinder packing, a valve or valve strip be distinguished or located?

A. Test for a leaky slide valve, place the engine on the quarter on the suspected side with the reverse lever in center notch; the valve should be in the middle of its travel and cover both ports. If steam blows through the open cylinder cocks on that side, the valve or seat are defective. A leaky balanced valve strip will allow steam to blow through the hole on top of the valve into the exhaust port in the seat and very little steam will come out of the cylinder cock; in some cases with the valve barely opening a steam port to the exhaust, air will draw in at the cylinder cock. If there is a drip cock in the exhaust pipe under the saddle, the steam will blow out there. After testing for leaky valve, place the engine on about the forward bottom or top back eighth, block the wheels or set the brakes solid, put reverse lever in corner, open cylinder cocks and give the engine steam. If steam comes out of both cylinder cocks, and testing valve shows it is tight, then the packing is blowing. Cylinder packing should be tested with steam first on one side of the piston and then on the other.

77. Q. If engine should blow badly and be unable to start the train when on the right dead center, on which side would be the blow generally?

A. On the left side. If the side standing on the quarter cannot start the train, the trouble is usually there.

78. Q. If throttle were closed and steam came out of cylinder cocks, what might be the cause?

A. To test for this, first shut off steam connection to the lubricator; steam leaking into the cylinders can come from a leaky throttle or leaky dry pipe.

79. Q. Is it possible to distinguish between a leaky throttle and a leaky dry pipe?

A. Yes; a leaky throttle usually leaks steam at all times. A leaky dry pipe will leak both steam and water. It will show a stream of water at the cylinder cocks when the water level in the boiler is raised above the leak in the dry pipe.

80. Q. What effect have leaky steam pipes in the smoke-arch, and how should they be tested?

A. Leaky steam pipes waste steam and very seriously affect the draft in the front end. A bad leak in the back part of the joint at the bottom will blow into the tubes and make the engine smoke at the door with throttle wide open while standing still. To test them, open the front door and cover the joint with fine cinders. When the engine is given steam, the cinders will blow away from the leak; to properly test them in the shop, water under heavy pressure should be used.

81. Q. How should the test for a leaky exhaust pipe joint, or a leaky nozzle joint be made?

A. About the only test that can be made on the road is to open the front end and reverse the engine with throttle partly opened, watching the suspected joint at the same time. For the bottom one with cinders around the joint, for the top one it can sometimes be detected by holding a torch near the joint.

82. Q. What should be done if a steam chest cracks?

A. Would loosen up the steam chest cover to free the sides, and wedge between the studs and walls of chest, crowding the broken parts together. A brake shoe key does this nicely. Would then tighten down on steam chest cover and proceed.

83. Q. What should be done if a steam chest breaks?

A. Would take off steam chest cover, place strips of boards over the steam inlets and block on top of them so that the steam chest cover would hold them in place and prevent live steam coming out of inlet. Would then make the necessary disconnection and proceed on one side.

84. Q. If a link lifter or arm were broken, what should be done?

A. Take off the disabled parts, block between the top of the link and link block, having the disabled link blocked down very nearly in full strokes. For safety, both the top and bottom of the disabled link should have blocks in its slot; the good link would be held in place by the reverse lever and should under no consideration be dropped down any farther than the disabled link was.

85. Q. If the reverse lever or reach rod should break, what should be done?

A. If either breaks, place an iron bar or suitable piece of material across the top of both frames, securely fastening it in position, then fasten the arm of the tumbling shaft to the bar. This will require the engine to be worked at about half cut-off; handle such part of the train as the road conditions would permit.

86. Q. What should be done if the piston, piston rod, cross-head, main rod or crank pin are broken or bent?

A. If a piston should break, would remove broken parts, disconnect valve stem, clamp valve in central position, and if moving piston would not damage cylinder, leave main rod up and proceed. If a piston rod, cross-head, main rod or crank pin are broken or bent, would take down the main rod, block the valve and cross-head; if piston rod is broken off at the cross-head, leave main rod up.

87. Q. What should be done when there is a loose or lost cylinder key?

A. If the cylinder key is loose, it should be tightened up; if lost, something should be substituted. In case nothing solid can be found to take the place of the key, the engine should be run in light to avoid further damage.

88. Q. What should be done if a safety valve spring or stud breaks?

A. The steam pressure should be reduced. With broken spring, screw the parts down solid or clamp the stem down. This can be done by laying a piece of scantling across the top of the valve, fastening each end to the hand rail on opposite sides of the engine in case of broken stud. Would then raise steam pressure and proceed. Care should be taken to see that the other safety valves relieve the steam pressure properly.

89. Q. How can an engine be brought in with a broken front end or stack?

A. By boarding up the front end to make it as near air tight as possible and using a barrel or a petticoat pipe in place of the stack, wiring it fast to the smoke-arch. Where a portion of the stack is inside the smoke-box the engine might steam without the barrel or petticoat pipe.

90. Q. What should be done if the frame is broken between the main driver and cylinder?

A. Either give up the train and come in light, or disconnect the engine on that side and come in with reduced tonnage, depending on how badly the engine pounds when working steam.